Are There Harmful Chemicals in Hair Dyes? 9 Toxic Ingredients To Avoid

Ever wonder what's really in the hair dye you use? Hair dye has become a staple in self-expression, covering grays, or even just switching things up for fun! However - many conventional hair dyes are packed with chemicals, that are harming more than just your hair. From scalp irritation to potential longer-term health risks like hormonal imbalances and even cancers!

Did you know that 75% of women and a growing number of men use hair dye, yet studies show that regular exposure to hair dye chemicals may increase cancer risk by up to 25%?

These chemicals in hair dye are buried in the fine print, hidden with terms like 'fragrance' and other vague terms. Fortunately, you do not have to choose between your hair care and your health. This article will uncover 9 harmful ingredients commonly found in hair dye formulations and provide you with safer non-toxic ways to dye your hair and keep your hair looking gorgeous!

Overview of hair dye popularity

Hair dyeing is more popular than ever, whether you are covering grass or trying a new bold shade! Hair coloring is a routine for most people

• Around 33% of women over 18 and 10% of men over 40 regularly colour their hair!

• In the UK, hair dye accounted for 27% of all hair care products sold in 2020, second only to shampoo!

But with this widespread use has come concerns. Studies show that around 25% of hair dye users experience some type of allergic reaction, such as redness, itching, or even facial swelling.

Understanding Types of Hair Dyes

The way hair dyes will interact with your hair depends on the type:

• Permanent hair dyes - Penetrate deep into the hair follicles, altering the hair's natural pigment and providing long-lasting results; however, they can dry out hair, leaving it brittle with repeated use.

• Semi-permanent hair dyes - Coat the surface of the hair; however, they fade after a few washes. They are less damaging but still contain chemicals that may cause scalp irritation.

• Temporary hair dyes - Sit on the hair shaft and wash out quickly. Although safer, they can still cause mild irritation.

Health and Environmental Concerns Associated with Permanent Hair Dyes

Colouring your hair may seem like a harmless routine; however, it can sometimes come with short- and long-term consequences and can significantly damage the environment, too.

Short-term risks :

• If you have ever experienced skin irritation such as itching, redness, or a burning sensation before or after applying hair dye, this is scalp irritation.

• Allergic dermatitis is a common side effect of hair dyes, sometimes causing swelling, blistering, or even rashes.

• Hair can often feel dry and brittle, making it feel straw-like and prone to breakage.

Long-term risks:

Over time, hair dye use can be harmful, as the chemicals can penetrate your scalp, causing it to enter and accumulate in your bloodstream. Research suggests links between these chemicals and:

• Hormone disruption, respiratory issues through inhaling the fumes during application, that can lead to breathing difficulties and ingredients like PPD and formaldehyde can increase cancer risk such as breast and bladder cancer

Pregnant women are particularly vulnerable, as some chemicals can cross the placenta. Studies have found connections between maternal hair dye and higher cancer risks or developmental issues in children.

The Link Between Hair Dyes and Health Risks: What Research Shows

A landmark 2019 study published in the International Journal of Cancer followed 46,709 women and revealed concerning links between permanent hair dye use and breast cancer risk:

• 9% higher risk of breast cancer overall for regular permanent hair dye users

• 60% higher risk specifically for Black women using dark shades frequently (every 5-8 weeks)

• 8% increased risk for white women using permanent dyes

Beyond cancer risks, research has documented other health concerns:

• Allergic Reactions: Studies show up to 25% of hair dye users experience some form of allergic reaction, ranging from mild irritation to severe dermatitis

• Respiratory Issues: Research indicates that hair dye chemicals, particularly ammonia and PPD, can irritate airways during application

• Endocrine Disruption: Several common hair dye ingredients are classified as potential endocrine disruptors, including:

  • Resorcinol

  • Phthalates

  • Certain ethanolamines

Environmental Impact of Hair Dyes

The damage doesn't stop with your use. Chemicals in conventional hair dyes like ammonia and phthalates seep into water systems when rinsed out, harming aquatic life and contributing to pollution. These chemicals do not easily break down, their environmental impact is often overlooked as they can affect ecosystems long after the dye is washed down the drain!

9 Toxic Chemicals in Hair Dyes:

1. Ammonia:

   Ammonia is a sharp-smelling chemical that is hard to miss when you're applying permanent hair dye products, it opens the hair cuticle for colour absorption. This chemical can even cause hair loss

   Why it's harmful:

   Have you ever felt your eyes water or your scalp sting whilst dying your hair, this is the ammonia. Ammonia can cause scalp burns, respiratory irritation, and eye discomfort.

2. Paraphenylenediamine (PPD)

   PPD is a common ingredient in dark hair dyes, often used to create deep, natural-looking colours. PPD reacts with hydrogen peroxide to create long-lasting tones in brunettes. This ingredient can also appear under the names 'toluene-2,5-diamine' or 'p-aminophenol' on labels.

   Why it's harmful:

   PPD is a major allergen causing anything from mild itching to severe swelling and even blistering in sensitive individuals.

3. Resorcinol

   Resorcinol is not as well known in personal hair dye, this ingredient works with PPD and hydrogen peroxide to finalise your hair's final shade.

   Why it's harmful:

   Resorcinol is a known endocrine disruptor and can impact your thyroid glands function causing hormonal imbalance, it is also classed as a skin irritant too.

4. Formaldehyde-releasing agents:

   Formaldehyde-releasing agents like DMDM hydantoin or quaternium-15 release a chemical called formaldehyde, a known preservative to prevent bacterial growth, extending your dye's shelf life.

   Why it's harmful:

   Formaldehyde is a known carcinogen, increasing your risk to cancers, and has been linked to skin and lung irritation, and can cause headaches.

5. Phthalates

   Phthalates are sneaky chemicals that hide under the term 'fragrance' in the ingredient lists, it uses to stabilize the dye and enhance texture.

   Why it's harmful:

   Pthalates are notorious for messing with your hormones, and has been linked to fertility issues, and developmental issues, especially in pregnant women.

6. Ethanolamines (MEA, DEA, TEA)

   Ethanolamines are emulsifiers, that help to blend oil and water, and are most commonly found in 'ammonia-free' hair dyes. These chemicals mimic ammonia's ability to open the cuticle without the overpowering shell.

   Why it's harmful:

   Ethanolamines can still irritate your scalp and skin, and may lead to organ toxicity or even cancer risk over time, so remain wary.

7. Sulfates

   Sulfates like sodium lauryl sulphate help to strip they hair's natural oils for better dye absorption

   Why it's harmful:

   Sulfates can dry out your hair and your scalp, causing scalp irritation, especially in people with textured hair types

8. Hydrogen peroxide

   Hydrogen peroxide is a potent bleacher, it acts by opening up your cuticle and breaking down your natural pigment, allowing the new colour to penetrate deeply and achieve vibrant hair shades.

   Why it's harmful:

   It is a harsh chemical, stripping your hair of its natural moisture, leaving it brittle, and prone to breakage.

9. Lead Acetate

   Lead acetate is a metal-based chemical, often found in gradual hair-darkening products, especially in products where you are trying to rid yourself of greys! This ingredient binds to a protein in your hair, darkening it with multiple applications, it is used mainly for grey coverage, providing a more 'natural' look over time.

   Why it's harmful:

   Overtime with repeated use, it can cause lead to potential lead poisoning. Although many countries have banned this in hair dyes, it is always worth reading labels carefully to avoid it.

How to Identify Harmful Ingredients in Hair Dyes

When scanning the ingredients lists, keep an eye out for the ingredients mentioned above, a quick google search of ingredients can be helpful, although there are apps now that can help you decode labels, and tell you how 'safe' a product is.

• Apps - EWG Skin Deep, Think Dirty App, INCI Decoder

• Certifications to look for - USDA Organic, COSMOS or EWG verified - these certifications meet strict organic standards, and ensure there are no harmful synthetic chemicals in products.

Legal and Regulatory Standards for Hair Dye

Hair dye safety standards will vary widely dependent on where you live;

• EU - The EU has some of the strictest guidelines, and so far have banned over 1,300 potentially harmful chemicals in cosmetics, including hair dyes. Ingredients like lead acetate and parabens are often prohibited.

• US - The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) often allow many chemicals that are banned in the EU, so you need to be more careful when selecting hair dyes if you live in the US!

Recently, lead acetate has been banned in the US in over-the-counter hair dyes, and many more brands are phasing out hair dyes containing formaldehyde and ammonia.

Safer Alternatives to Traditional Hair Dyes

Natural dyes

If you're looking for eco-friendly, and non-toxic alternatives to hair dyes, natural dyes are worth considering:

• Henna: known for its reddish tint, it has been used for centuries as a natural coloring agent

• Indigo: when combined with henna, indigo can create a darker shade of brown and black, which could be used as a hair dye

• Beetroot: this vibrant veggie, can provide a rich reddish or burgundy, when applied to the hair as a juice or paste

• Coffee: brewed coffee can depend brown tones, and even add a glossy finish too!

Clean hair dye

Innovations in clean beauty has sky-rocketed, and has revolutionised hair dyes, hairsprays, shampoo and conditioners, and even dry shampoo is becoming safer to use now, with lots of brands offering non-toxic alternatives!

New advances in the clean hair dye space are worth exploring:

• Plant-based Biotech Dyes: Laboratories have recently started to create lab-grown pigments from natural sources, reducing reliance on synthetic chemicals and offering long-lasting and vibrant colour

• Nanotechnology: this technology is improving the way pigment is delivered into the scape, allowing for better color absorption, and because of this, manufacturers are using lower concentrations of toxic chemicals like PPD or ammonia. Nanotechnology also allows for targeted application, meaning the dye can be tailored to your colouring needs!

• Ammonia-free formulas: Newer dyes are now removing ammonia and often replace it with ethanolamines (MEA, DEA, TEA). These compounds work similarly to ammonia but with less odor and lower initial irritation. However, it's important to note that ethanolamines still carry potential health risks - they're just different from those associated with ammonia.

There are many hair dye brands that are paving the way in non-toxic dyes including Hally*, IROIRO*, ARCTIC FOX*, MANIC PANIC*, Christophe Robin and many others that have non-toxic formulas to allow for clean formulations.

As Christina Ross, Director of Science and Policy at Credo Beauty, emphasizes, "By prioritizing safer ingredients and committing to higher standards, we can collectively drive innovation, build trust, and set a new norm."

Tips for Reducing Exposure to Toxic Hair Dye

Before use:

• Patch test first: Remember to always perform a patch test on your skin 24-48 hours before applying the dye to your scalp to avoid unnecessary allergic reactions or sensitivities

During use:

• Wear gloves: Make sure to wear gloves, and use the applicator brush to minimize exposure to the dye on your skin

• Use in well-ventilated spaces: Ensure to open windows, to avoid inhaling the fumes, and keep them open for a while after application

Post-dye maintenance:

• Limit frequency: Avoid over-dyeing your hair and opt for lower maintenance styles that use less dye, like ombre, or highlights, this keeps the dye off your scalp, keeping it safer!

• Choose safer products: When possible look for labels that are free from harmful chemicals like listed above, especially PPD, formaldehyde and ammonia

Key Takeaways

• Safety first: Knowing what is in your hair dye, keeps you informed and aware of the hidden risks, so you can make safer and healthier choices!

• Small switch, big impact: Choosing cleaner hair dyes, can reduce your chemical exposure and long-term health risks

• Nature's palette: Give henna a go, and try a natural dye, for a vibrant colour without the toxins

• Stay curious, stay safe: Try scanning your hair dye labels, and use apps like EWG Skin Deep to stay informed about what you're putting on your hair and skin

• Innovation is on your side: The clean beauty movement is evolving - new technologies and cleaner formulas make it easier than ever to enjoy a new hair colour, whilst remaining eco-conscious!

FAQ About Hair Dye Safety:

What harmful chemicals are in hair dye?

Hair dyes often contain harmful chemicals such as ammonia, hydrogen peroxide, paraphenylenediamine (PPD), resorcinol, phthalates, and formaldehyde-releasing agents. These substances can cause scalp irritation, allergic reactions, and have been linked to more serious health risks like cancer and hormone disruption.

What hair dye brands should I avoid?

Brands that frequently use harmful chemicals include Clairol Nice'N Easy, Garnier Nutrisse, Revlon Colorsilk, and L'Oreal Preference. These products often contain ingredients like ammonia and PPD, which are associated with health risks.

What is the safest kind of hair dye?

The safest hair dyes are those that are natural and free from harsh chemicals. Options like henna-based dyes or brands such as Arctic Fox offer non-toxic alternatives that minimize exposure to harmful ingredients.

How long do hair dye chemicals stay in your system?

Hair dye chemicals can be absorbed through the skin and may enter the bloodstream. While specific durations vary depending on the chemical and individual factors, some compounds can remain in the body for a few days to weeks after application.

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